Julian Roberts Subtraction Cutting

Julian's 'quick' example

On March 31st I had the opportunity to attend Julian Roberts pattern cutting workshop in Bath, as part of Bath in Fashion. Julian talked us through his work, and how to make some of his techniques that he uses to create his garments. They have a very interesting visual effect, kind of reminds me of clothes you might seen in All Saints. He said that his inspiration comes from Japanese designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Commes Des Garcon this link is very clear in the loose folding aspects of his work. 

Template for bodice and circle

After listening to Julian talk we then attempted to master some of the techniques we had learnt. Taking two contrast fabrics, sewn together to make a giant duvet cover, then putting down the pattern pieces for front and back bodice, to make a dress. (Pics kind of describe what I am struggling to ^_^) 

The front and back pieces,
joined side seams with curvy line

This was my first time using an industrial sewing machine, and wow they go fast. It made my little pfaff look a bit pathetic. Anyways, once we had this general structure we cut 2 circles (the largest circumference of our body), sewing them together. This was the fun part...very unpredictable. There were 30 of us on the course, and all the dresses were completely different. Different combinations of fabrics, prints and colours really brought the garments to life.

It was a little pressured to finish the dresses, (throw into the equation a wait for machines) my last circle was placed very close to the hem of the dress, and when joined to the other hole I cut, it hitched up the hem turing the dress into a top on one side. (I fixed the problem later)

Black and orange one is mine!

I really enjoyed the experience, and I am going to try to experiment more with the techniques I learnt. If your interested in learning more about Julian Roberts or his techniques he has a few books out that might interest you!

xox Niamh xox